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REUTERS/Arriana McLymore/File Photo Acquire Licensing RightsMADRID/LONDON, Oct 25 (Reuters) - Zara owner Inditex (ITX.MC), the world's biggest clothing retailer, has agreed to buy recycled polyester from U.S. start-up Ambercycle, the companies said on Wednesday. As fast-fashion retailers face pressure to reduce waste and use recycled fabrics, Inditex is spending more than 70 million euros ($74 million) to secure supply of Ambercycle's recycled polyester made from textile waste. Under the offtake deal, Inditex will buy a "significant" portion of Ambercycle's production of recycled polyester, which is sold under the brand cycora, over three years. Textile-to-textile polyester recycling is in its infancy, though, and will take time to reach the scale required by global fashion brands. The Ambercycle deal marks the latest in a series of investments made by Inditex into textile recycling start-ups.

Persons: Arriana, Inditex, Zara Athleticz, Javier Losada, Corina Pons, Helen Reid, Cynthia Osterman, David Holmes Organizations: REUTERS, Infinited, Thomson Locations: Zara's Soho, New York City, U.S, MADRID, LONDON, Zara, Los Angeles, Circ, Spain

"Increasingly we are going to turn used clothes into raw material from Europe for fashion companies." Also in Spain, rivals including H&M, Mango and Inditex have created a non-profit association to manage clothing waste, responding to an EU law requiring member states to separate textiles from other waste from January 2025. OBSTACLESThe obstacles to significantly reducing clothing waste are formidable, despite the EU crackdown, industry sustainability commitments and initiatives like the Moda Re expansion. Adidas (ADSGn.DE), Bestseller, and H&M (HMb.ST) have invested in Finnish start-up Infinited Fiber Company, which manufactures fibre out of textile waste, cardboard and paper. As in Spain, textile waste associations would be set up in each country.

Persons: Albert Alberich, Inditex, Dijana Lind, Hugo Boss, Lind, Moda, Aissatou Boukoum, Mauro Scalia, Corina Pons, Helen Reid, Horaci Garcia, Nacho, Frank Jack Daniel Our Organizations: BARCELONA, Moda, Caritas, Union, European Commission, Union Investment, Adidas, McKinsey, Reuters, EU, ReHubs, Moda Re, United Nations, Inditex, Puma, Infinited Fiber Company, Thomson Locations: Spain, Barcelona, Spanish, Europe, Zara, Bilbao, Valencia, EU, Frankfurt, ReHubs Europe, Mali, Sant, AFRICA, Cameroon, Ghana, Senegal, Africa, Senegalese, Germany, Texaid, Switzerland, Vestisolidale, Italy, France, EURATEX, Madrid, London, Nacho Doce

Another 25% will come from "next-generation" materials in which the group is investing, and the remaining 10% from other sustainable sources, the company said. The new targets come as the European Commission is drawing up regulations to make clothing retailers pay for the waste they produce, arguing that fast-fashion companies "encourage customers to shop impulsively and incentivise purchasing larger quantities of clothes". Inditex previously had targets to use more sustainable cotton, linen, polyester, and fibres made from wood pulp, but did not have an overall goal for recycled fibres. Shoppers walk past a Zara clothes store, part of the Spanish group Inditex, in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Spain, December 13, 2022. REUTERS/Borja Suarez/File Photo"Moving forward on sustainability is natural for us," said Inditex Non-Executive Chair, Marta Ortega, in brief comments to investors at the AGM.

Persons: Inditex, Oscar Garcia Maceiras, Borja Suarez, Marta Ortega, Ortega, Adam Gofton, Corina Pons, David Latona, Helen Reid, Andrei Khalip, Mark Potter, Sharon Singleton Organizations: Companies Zara, European Commission, Las Palmas de, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, REUTERS, Mackenzie Investments, Thomson Locations: MADRID, LONDON, Zara, Spanish, A Coruna, Spain, Las Palmas, Las Palmas de Gran, Toronto, Inditex, Madrid, London

In-store and online sales rose 13% to 7.6 billion euros in the first quarter, in line with the 13.5% seen in the first six weeks of the financial year. The company said it plans to invest 1.6 billion euros to increase gross store space in 2023 by about 3%. Inditex closed its over 500 stores in Russia in March 2022 following Moscow's invasion of Ukraine in February and subsequent Western sanctions. Inditex has begun to charge for online returns in more countries with no impact on sales, the company said. Inditex is also invested in more self-scanning checkouts and is replacing hard anti-theft tags with chips sewn into garments to avoid checkout queues.

Persons: Inditex, Massimo Dutti, Anne Critchlow, Jelena Sokolova, Zara, Corina Pons, Helen Reid, Charlie Devereux, Matt Scuffham, Josephine Mason, Elaine Hardcastle Organizations: Spain Company, Societe Generale, Inditex, Group, Morningstar, Thomson Locations: Spain, MADRID, LONDON, Zara, United States, Mexico, Saudi Arabia, U.S, Europe, Russia, Ukraine, UAE, France, Germany

Net profit came in at 1.2 billion euros ($1.24 billion) for the quarter that ended in April, exceeding analysts' average expectations of 980 million euros in a Refinitiv poll. Inditex reported solid sales, in line with analyst expectations of 7.56 billion euros, even after selling its profitable Russian division in 2022 and absorbing higher labour costs. Part of Inditex's strategy, which also owns Pull&Bear and Massimo Dutti, is to maintain higher prices outside the Eurozone. STEADY MARGINSThe gross margin reached a record 60.5%, showing it has been able to pass on higher prices to shoppers. Analysts believe only the strongest global fashion retailers will gain market share in an environment where consumers are becoming more discerning.

Persons: Inditex, Massimo Dutti, Corina Pons, Helen Reid, Charlie Devereux, Matt Scuffham, Josephine Mason Organizations: Thomson Locations: MADRID, LONDON, Zara, Spain, United States, Mexico, Saudi Arabia, U.S, Europe

Amancio Ortega set up the first Zara store in A Coruna in the north west of Spain in 1975. Marta Ortega started from the bottom at Inditex, stacking shelves at a Bershka store when she was 23. Ortega, whose father owns 59.3% of Inditex, has mainly worked in the background, leaving the spotlight to the CEO. "We feel that Marta Ortega has repositioned Zara slightly upwards," said Patricia Cifuentes, analyst at the investment banking arm of Spanish investment firm Bestinver. "Reinforcing that Zara sells fashion, not just clothes, has allowed Inditex to increase prices and protect the margins amidst the inflationary storm."

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